Jewel of Georgian Bay’s 30,000 Islands

Today in the Sound

The area is a gunkholer’s paradise, with hundreds of great places to drop the hook. And when mariners feel the need for a bit of civilization and provisions, they’ll find the “Jewel of the 30,000 Islands” — the town of Parry Sound. Unlike many Georgian Bay ports that are typically on the outskirts of town, Parry Sound Harbour is right in the heart of Parry Sound, with almost everything mariners need within walking distance. Ships approach Parry Sound either north or south of Parry Island, which protects the Sound from southerly blows. The deepest channel can be found north of Rose Island; while well-marked, captains are reminded to always watch charts and keep a sharp lookout as a missed mark might put you on the Georgian Bay’s notoriously unforgiving rock.

As one of the world’s deepest freshwater ports, Parry Sound is a bustling harbor with recreational boaters, annual summer visits by tall ships, seaplanes taking off and landing, and an occasional cruise ship docking at the Parry Sound Town Dock. But don’t worry about Key West-style congestion, cruise ships dock only about a dozen times during the season. If you come on your own craft, Big Sound Marina on Bob’s Point and the affiliated Town Dock are ready to welcome transients, with 130 slips for boats up to 70 feet, 30- and 50-amp power, pump-out, showers and laundry facilities. Harbormaster George Stivrins notes that mariners can get every necessity either on property or nearby; there are 10 restaurants within a 15-minute walk. Fuel is available from nearby Parry Sound Marine or on the south shore at Sound Boat Works.

By land or by sea — or air

Parry Sound is just a 2.5-hour drive from Toronto, and if you’re not coming on your own keel, you can still see the waterside of Parry Sound and beautiful Georgian Bay. The Island Queen Cruise departs daily in season from the waterfront, and features morning and afternoon cruises. Nearby, the M.V. Chippewa III tempts passengers with gourmet dinner cruises, destination cruises to restaurants on Craganmor Island or Frying Pan Island, and craft beer tasting cruises featuring local Trestle Brewing Company libations — also available anytime at the craft brewery’s taproom in town.

You can also book passage on a Great Lakes cruise ship and visit many ports including Parry Sound. Choose from the Pearl Seas Cruises’ Pearl Mist or the upscale Ponant Lines’ Le Champlain; the latter just started visiting Parry Sound in 2019. The town welcomes a new ship this spring, the Hanseatic Inspiration, owned and operated by Hapag-Lloyd. Somehow, Harbormaster Stivrins manages to squeeze these occasional cruise ships in on the Town Dock. Georgian Bay Airways’ seaplanes take off right from the Sound to show passengers aerial vistas of Georgian Bay’s rugged coastline and 30,000 islands. Try a “fly and dine” tour; the seaplane ducks into famous Henry’s Fish Restaurant on Frying Pan Island for lunch, where you’ll find the best pickerel (aka walleye) you’ve ever had.

Water, water, everywhere

Parry Sound features watersports of all stripes. Rent kayaks, paddleboards and canoes at White Squall Town Shop, and stock up on all the clothing and gear you need for your expedition. For underwater adventure, you’ll find Clear Water Scuba, which offers instruction, air fills and a fully equipped dive boat. Diver’s Nook features instruction, shipwreck dives, and wall and geological dives; book a full day trip and enjoy your lunch break on the beautiful shores of Georgian Bay. Black Feather, in nearby Seguin, has river and Georgian Bay paddling excursions, kayak and hiking wilderness adventure tours in the area, as well as international excursions.

Tee it up

Golf to your heart’s content at The Ridge at Manitou, a Thomas McBroom-designed beauty nestled among granite outcroppings. The Ridge features a golf academy, appropriately rustic clubhouse and a lakeside dining room and patio overlooking Lake Manitouwabing.

Or try Seguin Valley Golf Course, just south of Parry Sound. After 18 holes and lots of fresh Georgian Bay air, tame your hunger and thirst at Seguin Valley’s Bar and Grill, with Ontario’s traditional poutine (French fries topped with cheese curds and gravy) or fish and chips dipped in house-made Muskoka craft lager beer batter.

Visit nearby MacTier, Ontario, and Rocky Crest Resort, where golf on the granite- and hemlock-lined fairways goes hand in hand with stellar dining options in the beautiful log clubhouse. Prop your feet on the giant natural stone hearth at the Green Bistro while enjoying an adult beverage followed by penne alla boscaiola, a delicious dish made with smoked sausage, mushrooms and scallions in a silky rosé sauce. You can find casual dining at the resort’s Bayside restaurant, where a sunny patio boasts a nautical flare. Or gaze over Lake Joseph at Windows at Rocky Crest while you enjoy renowned Ontario beef or rack of lamb dressed with triple crunch mustard and local honey.

Around town

Mariners with a penchant for hockey will be glad to know that Big Sound Marina and Town Dock are neighbors to native son’s Bobby Orr Hall of Fame. Here, you can try your hand at being a sportscaster in the Play-By-Play Booth, or shoot a few pucks into the Top Shot Electronic Hockey Net.

Next door is the Charles W. Stockey Centre; the 480-seat performing arts center’s annual Festival of The Sound brings classical and jazz musicians to town mid-July through mid-August. Programs range from Latin jazz to big bands to Beethoven — and Canada Day features a special floating jazz cruise aboard the Island Queen.

Summer on-water festivals include the Wayfarer Ontario Championships Big Sound Challenge, as well as the Laser Sailing Regatta. Car enthusiasts can salivate over some real beauties at the Tuesday evening Classic Car Show all summer long, right next to your boat at the Town Dock.

Retail therapy

According to Parry Sound Tourism’s Vanessa Backman, “You’ll find surprisingly sophisticated shopping in Parry Sound.” Among the many offerings, you can pamper yourself at three spas: Above & Beyond Your Expectations, Perfectly Pampered Day Spa, or Georgian Oasis Spa.

Add to your art collection at area galleries and studios. At Artistic Endeavors, local artwork and souvenirs are on display, and 18 James Street offers art from a variety of artists with a focus on Georgian Bay paintings. Pottery enthusiasts will love the area’s three studios: Muddy Handshake Pottery, Northwinds Pottery and Toad Hill Pottery. I Branched Out features the latest in live-edge wood tables, benches and board games. Or try Huckleberry’s, a specialty retailer of Canadian wood home and cottage furnishings.

Bearly Used Books features a huge assortment of good reads and comfy chairs for perusing your selections. Hemp Tent showcases fair trade and Canadian-made clothing and gifts, while The Wolf Den’s trading post-style store features moose hide and deerskin moccasins, Ojibway porcupine quill baskets and dreamcatchers. Just Icing Boutique offers women’s clothing and jewelry. Bayside Depot, right underneath the longest trestle bridge in Ontario, is the place to select local crafts and get your picnic supplies for a shore-side lunch; you can even come by dinghy and pull up to the public boat dock. Beverly’s is the source for gift baskets chock full of Canadian and local products, while Orr’s Fine Meats and Deli is a great picnic supply stop.

Fresh produce, smoked meats and fish, baked goods and local crafts are readily available at two summer farmers markets. Parry Sound Waterfront Market is conveniently held at the Town Dock every Saturday in season; or a 10-minute walk to Market Square will take you to Tuesday’s Farmers Market. For stocking up the boat, Sobey’s, No Frills and Walmart are about two miles from the marina; if you need a lift back with your provisions, the local taxi will take you anywhere in town for a flat $10 (CAN) fee.

Fuel up

When discussing Parry Sound restaurants, Backman notes: “Dining options are too numerous to list — how much space do you have?”

Local favorites include historic Wellington’s Pub and Grill, which over the years has been voted Parry Sound’s best ribs, fish and chips, and chicken wings. On slow days, Wellington’s may even give you a lift from the marina. New in 2019, Di Salvo’s Bella Cucina has elegantly prepared Italian food; try beef short rib saltimbocca with portobello mushrooms, or roasted boar with rosemary oregano, garlic and Pinot Grigio-glazed pears. For a more casual Italian option, try Maurizio’s Pizzeria’s new wood-fired pizza oven for some excellent thin-crust pies. Bay Street Café offers a delicious bistro menu, including steaks, ribs, fresh rainbow trout and the area’s ubiquitous pickerel; dine alfresco on the patio. The Log Cabin Inn has gourmet fare and an extensive wine cellar; try the house-cured gravlax and smoked fish, or duck confit with Marsala wine reduction and homemade gnocchi. While it’s a taxi ride there, after you dine, you’ll receive a free taxi ride back to the marina.

Casual options include Tailwinds Restaurant at the seaplane base; its fish and chips is a favorite with nearby Big Sound Marina guests. Canadian home cooking is available at both Trappers and Country Gourmet Café. Or dinghy across the harbor to Glenn Burney Lodge in nearby Seguin. Here, the house-made smoked board with hot smoked trout, candied salmon, pickled pickerel, and trout pate looks yummy, as does the yellow perch wrap with red onion slaw and frites. Featuring a giant TV, this outdoor patio was overrun by locals and visitors alike to cheer on 19-year-old Canadian tennis star and Ontario native Bianca Andreescu as she bested legendary Venus Williams in the 2019 U.S. Women’s Tennis Open.

Walk it off

After all those calories, how about some exercise? Adjacent to the marina, you can hike along the rocky shoreline of Parry Sound on the five-mile Rotary & Algonquin Regiment Waterfront Trail, a repurposed railway line that gives access to the town’s parks and beaches. Or climb the Tower Hill Lookout, a 98-foot-high historic fire observation tower, for a spectacular view of the Sound. The adjacent The Museum on Tower Hill provides historical context for visitors with rotating exhibits; next door, Tower Hill Heritage Garden nestles on a hill overlooking the Sound, with a beautiful walk along flagstone paths, rock gardens, ponds and gardens. Keep things buzzing with a visit to the Parry Sound and Area Community Apiary, where you can learn about beekeeping and take part in a honey tasting.

Three Provincial Parks draw nature-lovers to the Parry Sound area: Killbear, whose peninsula juts into the Sound just northwest of town (Lighthouse Point Trail is popular here); Massasaugua; and Oastler Lake just southeast of Parry Sound. All offer camping, biking, hiking, backcountry access and, during Ontario’s frosty winter, cross-country skiing.

No matter the season, you’ll find Parry Sound an exquisite jewel — not only of the 30,000 islands but of all of Ontario.