On Lake Superior’s wild northern shore, Grand Marais, Minnesota, blends rugged wilderness, a creative spirit and warm hospitality into an unforgettable destination.
Most boaters don’t come all the way to Grand Marais, Minnesota, on a whim. It takes meticulous planning and plenty of provisions to reach this remote Port of Call on Lake Superior’s northern shore. It’s frequently a jumping-off point for even more remote locations, like Isle Royale, the Apostle Islands, the Susie Islands and Thunder Bay. But this unique small town set against the dramatic landscape of the Sawtooth Mountains and the Superior National Forest is a worthy destination in and of itself. Not only will its beauty take your breath away, but it’s home to some of the warmest, most industrious, creative people you’ll find anywhere.
“Grand Marais is a small town unlike any I’ve ever known. It’s a confluence of artists, craftspeople and wilderness explorers,” says Laura Korynta, an artist, craftsperson and wilderness explorer in her own right. Based in the Twin Cities, Korynta first came to know Grand Marais right after college on two wheels along the paved Gitchi-Gami State Trail. Later, she spent 10 months working, studying and teaching as a craft education intern at the North House Folk School. She has since returned many times to teach with the folk school.
In all these roles, she’s come to know many of the visitors and local residents well. Along with the vast sky and the cold, cold water, it’s the people that keep drawing her back.
“There are so many who start things up,” Korynta says, reciting a long list of local innovators. “[Someone at the Folk School] decided that since there’s no movie theater, they would start showing movies in the high school gym. People pay $5 and go. Someone started square dancing lessons in the log cabin. It’s a place where you get to try things, full of curious people who appreciate the beauty of it and work really hard to live there. Everyone has a passion and interest in doing things.”
Tips from the harbormaster
One such resident is Dave Tersteeg, director of Parks and Recreation, harbormaster and the unofficial “mayor” of the small seasonal “town” of the Grand Marais municipal campground and marina every summer (seriously — the 300-site rec park might swell to more than 1,000 guests on a busy summer weekend. Compare that to the town’s off-season population of about 1,300). Tersteeg is also a sailor, writer, husband, father of two teenage sons and an epic snowboarder. So if you’re looking for tips, your harbormaster is the one to see.
And if you arrive at the fuel dock in the middle of the night, desperate for a place to tie up ’til morning, Tersteeg will be the one to greet you bright and early. Which is how my family first met him a decade ago, when we had three little kids aboard our 38-foot Marine Trader trawler, Mazurka, slowly making our way north from Duluth. The following year, when we returned, bound for Isle Royale, Tersteeg and his wife, Marcela, were there to send us off. A few weeks later, they welcomed us back with a huge box of Cheez-Its and “healthy” Pringles from the Cook County Co-op. With two boys at home, they knew our three youngest crewmembers would be majorly jonesing after eating stale crackers at Isle Royale.
Laura Korynta / Provided by Laura
North House Folk School / Visit Cook County Minnesota/Al & Lyndsey Johnson
ABOVE TOP: Beach walk / Visit Cook County Minnesota/Al & Lyndsey Johnson;
ABOVE BOTTOM, L-R: Plein Air Grand Marais painter David Gilsvik / Visit Cook County Minnesota/Kjersti Vick;
Grand Marais Municipal Campground & Marina / Visit Cook County Minnesota/Rob Jahnke
Besides the incredibly warm welcome mat, Tersteeg offers three solid reasons boaters like to visit Grand Marais.
#1 Reason: Ideal pit stop. “We have primo fuel, fast pump-out, cold ice, hot coffee, fresh donuts and clean showers. We are an oasis on a cold water desert sea along the rocky north shore of Lake Superior,” he says.
It’s true: there are no other marina services within 50 nautical miles, making it a sweet stop on your way from one cruising ground (like the Apostle Islands) to another (like Isle Royale).
Tersteeg also points out, “This little marina in the northwest corner of the harbor is snug, safe and just footsteps away from downtown Grand Marais.”
#2 Reason: VIP treatment from the local harbormaster. We aren’t the only boaters to rave about Tersteeg’s hospitality for those hardy enough to cruise into his marina. As a sailor himself — a self-proclaimed “boat nerd” with 20 years on the docks — he’s earned a reputation for treating others how he would like to be treated. This harbormaster would gladly give you a ride to NAPA or the laundromat and, on the way, share the local knowledge, weather and insights about your trip. He’s also got a bike (with baskets) you can borrow. He knows people who know people. The marina may be small, but, as Tersteeg points out, “What the marina lacks in size and repair services, the harbormaster makes up for in hospitality and creativity.”
#3 Reason: Adventure and accomplishment. “Lake Superior is so vast,” Tersteeg says. “Crossing it takes courage and brings a sense of escape and freedom. You can try a night crossing and really expand your horizons. Hours of staring into the starry abyss will certainly unwind your mind. Sun and moon rises and sets can be spectacular. The anticipation and appreciation of landfall is real. Boating in from the wild blue wonder, reaching an outpost on the edge of civilization — this is the kind of adventure that feeds the soul.”
Downtown discovery
The town is small enough that you can easily walk to the downtown area, where you’ll find the Cook County Co-op and other grocery stores, plus one-of-a-kind restaurants. For fish, try the Angry Trout and Fisherman’s Daughter (Kotyna recommends the smoked whitefish). Grab a slice at Sven and Ole’s Pizza (make sure to get a bumper sticker). And for your sweet tooth, people have been known to drive for hours to get in line early at World’s Best Donuts (the demand is high these days). The newer Crosby Bakery is wildly popular according to locals. Java Moose is the well-known lakefront café, and recently, Fika coffee roaster has opened its second North Shore location in town. Ski bums, mountain bikers and autumn-color-seekers have been visiting the first shop at nearby Lutsen for years. Since 2025, the new municipal liquor store has provided fresh, modern public restrooms and all the provisions your 21-and-up crew might need.
Looking for other supplies? Within a short walk, you’ll find a hardware store, an epic Ben Franklin, plus galleries and gift shops, thrift stores, outfitters and the fabulous public library downtown.
A new Parkside public water access opened in 2024. According to Tersteeg, this modern, barrier-free public water access is the premier boat launch onto Lake Superior in the region. Featuring two launch wells and plenty of truck and trailer parking, the facility was designed by boaters, for boaters. There is no fee to launch. There is also a BoardSafe accessible kayak launch and wetsuit changing station.
“During the public planning process, we confirmed how much folks love to stroll out to the lighthouse on the main breakwall, so we put a fully accessible sidewalk on top of the protective breakwall at the launch. The project was 10-plus years in vision, design, funding and construction.” It was worth it, Tersteeg says. “After opening, we received a States Organization of Boating Access (SOBA) award for outstanding contributions to public boating access, facility development and water safety.”
L-R: Angry Trout / Angry Trout Instagram; World’s Best Donuts / World’s Best Donuts website;
Voyageur Brewing / Visit Cook County Minnesota/Al & Lyndsey Johnson
Lifelong learning
The radio crowd knows Grand Marais for WTIP — a truly independent radio station run by locals. Tersteeg retired from his host gig just a few years ago. The station is one of Korynta’s favorites: “They have the mini mix — locals pick three favorite songs. It’s so fun! You’ll be listening and think, Oh, that’s Joe! That’s Kiersten, emceeing this.”
Local talk is one of the best parts of Grand Marais, says Korynta. “It’s the beauty of the Grand Marais — everyone’s down to talk. If I’m going to the Co-op, I know I’m going to spend an extra 15 minutes there because I talk to this person, and that person…”
As a craft education intern with the Folk School, Korynta “did a little bit of everything that helps the folk school run. I took classes and taught classes. I sailed as a deckhand on Hjørdis. I was a cashier. I worked in the facility. I’d show up for a shift and help re-roof the historic fishing house, or help brand these bread scrapers for the gift shop. It was good because I was a learner every time.”
That spirit of lifelong learning drives the Folk School mission, which is an underlying principle of the Grand Marais community. It goes well with the spirit of the wilderness adventurer and the innovative residents. In all my time as a boater in Grand Marais, I have come to find that this passion for lifelong learning and experience is everywhere in town, and one of the reasons we keep going back. Interesting things are always happening in town. Craftspeople from all over the world come to show their work and give classes and demonstrations. Boaters are in a prime position to wander off the dock and right into the epicenter of this creativity. Many of the Folk School classes are booked far in advance, but you can also take your chances and jump in for last-minute openings.
Boaters who appreciate process and procedure (most of us) will find plenty of inspiration in the work of local artisans.
“Because it’s a town full of artists, there are so many beautiful things around you that are made by hand,” says Korynta. “They’re made with things local to the area, like timber-framed buildings. And there are so many teachers who are so generous.”
The dramatic beauty of the natural environment can’t help but draw people who value an artistic aesthetic. “Landscape plays a big part. And of course, the water,” says Korynta. “But even more, it’s the sky. It does something to your brain — it expands your thinking, to see that much openness.”
You can see a truly dark sky at night. Maybe even the Northern Lights.
And while you’re there, says Korynta, make sure to “Swim in the cold, cold water that’s so good for you.”
L-R: Fisherman’s Daughter / Fisherman’s Daughter Facebook; BoardSafe kayak launch / Boardsafe Website;
Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness / Visit Cook County Minnesota/ON3 Photography
Grand Portage National Monument Rendezvous Days
Grand Marais is located on the ancestral home of the Anishinaabe people, traditionally part of the Grand Portage Band of Lake Superior Chippewa. Their reservation is a 45-minute drive up the shore, within walking distance of the Grand Portage National Monument. A beautiful time to visit is the annual Grand Portage Rendezvous Days. Held every August, the free three-day event recreates the world of the 1800s when more than a thousand people came together to trade and celebrate — including the Anishinaabe, Cree and other First Nation people, Voyageurs and North West Company agents and partners. During the festival, the Grand Portage Band hosts the Rendezvous Days Pow Wow, which is open to the public.
visit cook county minnesota; national park service
A one-of-a-kind ship
In Nordic culture, a votive ship was an important feature of churches. This smaller boat model held the sorrows, hopes and joys of a culture that traditionally depended on the sea for its livelihood and suffered its losses. Take a short drive up the shore to Hovland to see one of the only votive ships around the Great Lakes at Trinity Lutheran Church. The Valhalla was painstakingly designed and built by Mark Hansen, one of North House Folk School’s founders and an expert boat builder. It is based on a 10th-century Icelandic ship and features important figures from Lake Superior maritime history.
Valhalla screenshot / trinity church YouTube
Summer Solstice and Wooden Boat Festival
In late June, a mystical morning light begins before 5 a.m. and the sun doesn’t go down until after 9 p.m., leaving behind it a long, lovely trail of lingering light. It’s prime time for boaters at the annual North House Summer Solstice and Wooden Boat Festival, a weekend celebrating all things beloved to summer boaters — including craft demonstrations, handmade boats on display, a pageant and picnic, live music and the Boats to Tools auction. Don’t miss the opportunity to sail aboard the Grand Marais Harbor flagship Hjørdis, a 50-foot traditionally rigged steel schooner.
visit cook county minnesota; north house folk school facebook
