Center of the Freshwater World

History Come to Life

The region’s past remains easy to explore in spots like Father Marquette Park, where the early settlement story is told through 15 interpretive markers spread throughout winding walking paths. If there’s almost a spiritual feel to the place, perhaps it’s because it’s holy to local Native Americans who still use it for regular ceremonies. But the Museum Ojibwa Culture, now constructing an authentic native Longhouse through traditional methods, and Fort de Buade, now a free museum based entirely around the sold collection of a local orthodontist, most vividly bring past to present.

Fort de Buade’s collection starts with a pair of tablets, found around Newberry, Michigan in the late 1800s and thought to be proof that Michigan’s earliest tribes traded Upper Peninsula copper with the ancient Minoan civilization. Museum visitors can pick up a few Odawa words like Amik (bear) or Mino (good); see rare animal effigies, sacred pipes, trade items and ancient clothing; and learn about the area’s French, military and lumber history. But worthy of its own specially built room — and a destination visit — is the new permanent exhibit, “Captured Spirits.”

Here, a collection of 120 stunning lithographs represent 19 tribes from which dignitaries traveled to Washington, D.C. in the 1800s on tribal business. Thomas McKenney, then superintendent of Indian Affairs, commissioned artist Charles Bird King to capture the likenesses as these chiefs, orators and other leaders traveled for treaty negotiations and official business. Forget the images of natives from early Westerns; these paintings couldn’t look more different from one another — be they the colorful depiction of Nah-Et-Lue-Poie, in his French-looking red sash headpiece and large earrings; Pottawatomie Chief Wa-baun-see in his military-looking garb; or the young Chippeway widow who traveled bearing her husband’s belongings in the shape of a swaddled child. In the widow’s tribe, women would carry belongings for a full year as a way to help the deceased reenter Earth, says curator Debora Robinson-Coxe, who is working to expand the exhibit with stories behind the images.

Travel Fun

The area’s sometimes too-long winters encourage residents and visitors to get more than a bit creative with year-round fun.

There’s no need even for an indoor hockey rink, for example, when “pond hockey” on Moran Bay is such a tournament draw. Popular, too, is what was once a locals-only game of pond golf that is getting broader notice. The annual day in which a whole golf course worth of holes is carved in the bay for a fun scramble that includes lunch and dinner is being opened up more broadly to visitors and expanded. And this year’s grand prize is especially worthy: A rare chance to travel to the top of the Mackinac Bridge.

Winter’s quiet makes for pristine cross-country ski outings, particularly in spots like the waterfront trail, with a great view of the Mackinac Bridge at Straits State Park, otherwise closed for the season. There’s a groomed cross-country ski area at the Sand Dune Cross Country Ski Trail, 11 miles west of town, and two small downhill runs and snow tubing at Silver Mountain. Snowmobiling is a popular winter pursuit, too. Rentals are available in town, and St. Ignace is seen as a trailhead to the miles of trails across Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.

Or you can drive your own team of sled dogs, starting an hour away in McMillan at Nature’s Kennel headquarters (natureskennel.com). Opt for a partial day trip, or get more adventurous with an overnight option that lets you choose from an upscale inn or a camping outing with the dogs, simulating conditions of Alaska’s Iditarod, a race on which these sled dog teams participate. But you’re not going the entire 1,000 miles; just cuddling with blankets and dogs, under a full moon, as you listen to adventure stories from races past. The key to success, says Iditarod racer and kennel owner Ed Stielstra, is being able to relax — and stay standing.

Mackinac Island in Winter

St. Ignace is the winter gateway to Mackinac Island, whether you’re taking a ferry not yet socked in by ice, flying over via Great Lakes Air, or snowmobiling (carefully) across an ice bridge that on particularly cold years will form across the Straits. Once on the island, the trip highlight is serenity, says Alison Abraham, assistant director at Mackinac Island Tourism, who notes that it’s hard to find snow more untouched than you’ll find on an island that banned cars more than a century ago.

“Here the snow falls, and that’s how it looks all winter,” she said. “It’s an untouched canvas of beautiful white. There’s not a lot going on. And that’s the draw.”

Mackinac Island always has been far better known as a summer destination, perhaps back to the days Native Americans gathered in warmer months at the sacred spot they dubbed “The Great Turtle.” President Andrew Johnson in 1875 named it America’s second national park (three years after Yellowstone), and 80 percent of the island remains as undeveloped as it was before wealthy Victorians started building the gingerbread cottages that still grace its island bluffs.

From June’s National Lilac Festival through fall, ferries run non-stop with loads of visitors who’ll explore by bike or horse the Victorian downtown, housing art galleries and fudge shops, fur-trade era buildings, scenic trails, and an iconic fort. Especially popular (and worth a visit) is the seasonal, 128-year-old (this summer) Grand Hotel, perhaps best known as the movie set for the cult romance “Somewhere in Time,” if only for high tea, its famed five-course dinner, or a glass of Veuve Clicquot on the world’s longest porch.

Come winter, just a handful of lodging options remain open, along with a couple of restaurants that serve up hot toddies, cedar-planked whitefish and steaming soups, and even host the popular mid-February Great Turtle Chili Cookoff and Washington Birthday Bash. Horse-drawn taxis pick you up at the airport or ferry dock, if you call ahead. The 600 horses that keep visitors moving all summer drop to just 16. But getting around from there is best done in good boots or cross country skis.

The Mackinac Island Ski Club grooms 15 miles of trails on the 3.8–square-mile island, many of them bike paths come summer, and paths amid snow-covered cedars in winter. Skiing is fun, too, down the main streets, past buildings that resemble a movie set or ghost town. It’s also fun to take the skis off, climb up to Fort Mackinac, and catch the view from the 14 original buildings, getting a feel for the life soldiers here once lived — even without the help of costumed interpreters who bring those tales to life come peak season.

This year, three hotels are remaining open through winter: Pontiac Lodge, Harbour Place Studio Suites and Bogan Lane Inn. For more information on winter services, logistics and events, visit mackinacisland.org/winter.

Your Home Port

St. Ignace’s new tourism motto is “your home port,” positioning the town as a hub for travels that might take you on a dog sledding adventure, or Tahquamenon Falls, Whitefish Point, Mackinac Island, or just around downtown St. Ignace. And you won’t find a spot more central to the action than the town’s marina, famous for (intentionally) having the cheapest gas prices anywhere and the way marina staff has added a vegetable garden to the floral landscaping — and generously shares cucumbers, tomatoes and other bounty with visiting boaters.

There’s formal activity fun along the waterfront every night of the week through July and August, says Mindy Rutgers of the St. Ignace Visitors Bureau. Sunset cruises on the Starline Ferry are Monday’s offering. On Tuesdays, there’s wine and beer tasting at the Pavilion. Wednesdays and Thursdays, it’s live music featuring local and regional musicians and a Thursday farmer’s market. Friday’s “Night at the Museum” features native drumming and singing, storytelling and free guided walking tours. Every Saturday, it’s a full fireworks display, accompanied by music blasted through a PA system; and Sundays brings free movies on a blow-up movie screen by the waterfront.

Any day of the week, visitors will find multiple ways to enjoy regional food favorites like the pasty — a meat pie in crust brought from Cornwall, England, by Upper Peninsula miners — or fresh whitefish, served baked, fried, planked or in dips.

Overlooking Lake Huron, Wawatam Lighthouse & Mackinac Island, the Mackinac Grille and Waterfront Pub is a great place to go for lunch, dinner or a Sunday brunch buffet. The Grille is open year-round and for those cold, winter days, it’s a great place to stop and let the fireplace and great atmosphere warm you up. During summer, their big, inviting porch offers terrific views of Lake Huron and the St. Ignace Marina.

Shopping is centered around souvenirs and the craftwork of local artisans. Native Expressions, the store set within the Museum of Ojibwa Culture, features original crafts by Native American artists. John Herbon of John Herbon Pottery brings his modern-day spin on an ancient craft and is most noted for the use of beautifully painted fish as handles or ornaments of bowls, teapots and boxes. Gold Mine Jewelry crafts gallery pieces from local Petoskey stones, pudding stones, and agates unique to Michigan.

If you’re interested in making this charming UP community “your home port,” contact Mackinac Properties, located in the center of downtown St. Ignace and overlooking Lake Huron. The company was founded in 1998 by Cheryl Schlehuber, a Mackinac County resident for more than 45 years. With 100-plus combined years of industry knowledge and experience, this boutique-style company specializes in friendly, professional and personalized hometown service. High demand for rental properties recently prompted Mackinac Properties to open a new venture, Northern Michigan Vacation Rentals.

“Most anything you need is within easy walking distance — a laundromat, a library, a boardwalk, downtown shops, restaurants, ferries, and festivals,” Peterson says of life in St. Ignace. “When you’re out on that pier with water on three sides of you, ferry boats going back and forth to the island, and the activities and events around you, where else would you rather be?”