Clayton Cool

A USA Today’s 10 best readers choice named Clayton, New York, the “Best Small-Town Cultural Scene” in 2022 and it’s easy to see why. This town has so much to offer.

Originally a hunting ground for native tribes, Clayton was first settled by French explorers in the 1820s. Its first major industry was lumber. Shipbuilding was a natural extension of that industry and was needed to traverse the many waters surrounding this region. One popular boat that originated in the Thousand Islands region was the St. Lawrence Skiff, developed around 1868 and the boat of choice for fishing guides of the time. Simon Johnston was one of the area’s prominent shipbuilders, whose home is now the popular Hops Spot eatery.

In 1872, President Ulysses S. Grant came to visit American engineer and industrialist George Pullman at his home on Pullman Island. He was joined by a large entourage, including members of the press. The subsequent news stories sparked interest in the Thousand Islands. New hotels sprung up. The Clayton railway depot opened in 1873. Passengers came by steamboat and rail, launching just the beginning of Clayton as a tourist destination. Gone now, The Frontenac Hotel on Round Island was once a grand destination for the elite that came to the Thousand Islands during the Gilded Age. In 1898, tobacco king Charles Emery of Calumet Island purchased a controlling interest in the hotel. It was turned into one of the largest hotels in the country. It boasted a polo field and tennis courts, among other amenities. Unfortunately, in 1910, as Emery watched from his home on Calumet Island, it burned to the ground.

Ironically the fire is believed to have started by a cigarette — the very product that had made Emery his fortune.

photo courtesy of the thousand Islands museum

To learn more about the history of Clayton, visit the Thousand Islands Museum. It has displays of bygone eras, a library of books for research and a whole floor dedicated to duck decoys.

By water

Perhaps the most special place in Clayton is the Antique Boat Museum (ABM), showcasing on-water treasures from birch bark canoes to racing boats in its spacious campus on the St. Lawrence River. It’s also home to La Duchesse. Built in 1903 by George Boldt and later owned by E.J. Nobel (inventor of Life Savers candy), followed by Andrew McNally, La Duchesse is a charming houseboat with a colorful history. As you tour her, you experience the elegance her illustrious owners and guests would have felt.

photo courtesy of antique boat museum

This year marks La Duchesse’s 120th anniversary, as well as the 75th anniversary of Pardon Me, considered the world’s largest runabout.

The ABM doesn’t just have displays, they are also a hands-on museum with workshops, education programs, restorations, boating classes and several annual events, like the popular Antique Boat Show & Auction in August. They offer boat rides and sunset cruises and are dedicated to celebrating and keeping alive the tradition of antique boats. One fun thing to do here is to take a speedboat ride, wind in your hair as you zip through the water, with a knowledgeable captain who will make several stops to tell you stories of the area. There is so much to this wonderful museum, make sure you allot plenty of time to take it all in.

When it comes to speed on the water, Clayton has a long history of racing. It’s highlighted in the Quest for Speed exhibit at the ABM. The tradition continues today with the annual 1000 Islands Charity Boat Poker Run.

Another way to hear the stories of Clayton and the area is to take a boat tour with Clayton Island Tours. I took the glass bottom boat tour to Rock Island Lighthouse, where we also saw a shipwreck and the submerged remains of the huge dock that serviced the Frontenac Hotel. The lighthouse is a bit of a climb — although easier than some that I have visited — but it’s definitely worth it.

The first Rock Island Lighthouse was built in 1847 and was mounted on the roof of the keeper’s house. In 1884, a new Victorian-style keeper’s house was built on the island and the lighthouse stood alone. Cows and chickens were kept to feed the keepers and their families. Perhaps one of the most roguish keepers was Bill Johnston. A notorious pirate, he was at one point arrested and jailed and later pardoned by President William Henry Harrison. It was after this pardon that he became the Rock Island Lighthouse keeper between 1853 and 1861.

Clayton Island Tours also offers the Boldt Island and Two Nation Tour, exploring both U.S. and Canadian waters, sunset cruises on the St. Lawrence River, as well as private tours.

If you want a more intimate tour, check out Your Wave Tours. Up to six people can take a pontoon boat tour with your own knowledgeable captain. The tours are a bit pricey but not so bad when the cost is divided.

photo courtesy of hops spot facebook

Food & libations

Before you start out on your day, whether it be sightseeing or fishing, fuel up at one of the breakfast places like Koffee Kove, which has been around for 51 years. One bite and it’s easy to taste why it is so popular. I had the strawberry pancakes and couldn’t believe the generous amount of whipped cream on the top. Bella’s, with a patio on the river, is another popular spot.

After a busy day exploring, there are some good options for dinner. Along Riverside Drive is Channelside and Di Prinzio’s, both with patios. Di Prinzio’s is known for its homemade pasta. Across the street — also with a patio and located in the historic Johnston House — is The Hops Spot. You can’t miss this historic location with its green exterior and Italianate-style architecture.

The Clipper Inn is a little bit farther of a walk but is well worth it. It has been family-run for over 45 years, offering a dining room, a lively bar and a motel. The owner, Chef Michael Simpson, is a friendly man whose family has been in the area for generations. His grandparents worked for some of the largest establishments in the area, including the Thousand Islands Club on Wellesley Island, owned by E. J. Noble.

Stop by Wood Boat Brewery to try its wide selection of beers. Pizza is a popular menu item and it looked delicious. I highly recommend the jalapeno poppers; unlike the breaded type, these were wrapped in bacon and served with a raspberry balsamic sauce.

Speaking of local libations, two spots spring to mind: Saint Lawrence Spirits and Coyote Moon Vineyards. Both have tasting rooms right on Riverside Street, as well as their locations nearby.

Photo courtesy of bella’s facebook

The region’s first micro-distillery, Clayton Distillery, is another spot not to be missed for a tasting of various spirits. Located on Route 12, its premium-grade products are made from locally grown grains, which are double distilled in a 250-gallon copper still. This nautical-themed distillery offers samples of its vodka, gin, bourbon, flavored whiskey, moonshine, limoncello and liqueurs. There is even a slushie bar where you can order a bourbon cream cold brew coffee or bloody mary cocktail.