Land of America’s Grapes

Along the eastern shores of Lake Erie, just past Erie, Pennsylvania, and a bit southwest of Buffalo, miles of vineyards line the escarpment that sweeps from beaches and cliffs to the Chautauqua Ridge. With a change in elevation from around 570 feet to 2,180 feet above sea level, the landscape is defined by a continental divide between the Great Lakes and St. Lawrence Seaway and the watersheds that lead to the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers and on to the Gulf of Mexico.

History was made along these shores: Once a gateway for explorers as well as the transportation of goods to the Ohio River Valley, site of the first gas well and gas-powered lighthouse, a now-quiet port once considered the most suitable point for the western terminus of the Erie Canal, and the home of a girl named Grace Bedell who convinced presidential candidate Abraham Lincoln to grow whiskers in order to look, well, more presidential. He did and won, becoming one of the most important presidents in U.S. history.

These shores that stretch for approximately 50 miles and form the northern border of Chautauqua County, New York, offer three very different points of entry. At the northern and eastern point, three launches tucked into the outlet of Cattaraugus Creek in the town of Irving provide entry to the surrounding Sunset Bay community. The popular summer beachfront destination resembles a vacation spot along the Eastern Atlantic with dunes, a sandy beach, beach clubs, kayak and paddleboard rentals and a community of vacation homes. Larger boats prefer the city pier at Chadwick Bay in Dunkirk with its boardwalk of boutique shops, ice cream, small bites and waterfront restaurants. More leisurely visitors, small boats and fishermen find the relaxed community at Barcelona the perfect spot for an afternoon stop.

The harbors: By land or by sea

• Barcelona Harbor, good for medium-size boats, depth 5 feet or less in some spots. In 1829, the Barcelona Lighthouse was put into service beckoning ships to land near the Portage Trail, which ran about nine miles up the escarpment to Chautauqua Lake. Originally lit with oil lamps, in 1931 it became the first lighthouse in the world to be fueled by natural gas. A great storm devastated the area in 1844, permanently changing the shoreline, and the lighthouse was decommissioned in 1859. Today, Barcelona is a Safe Harbor located in the Town of Westfield and a regular port for local boaters, sailors, fishermen and kayakers. The beach, once part of the original harbor, is a renowned vantage for watching sunsets. The lighthouse keeper’s cottage, privately owned for five generations, is open to the public as a museum and visitor center. Day trippers will find beaches, casual places to eat, including Westfield Fisheries (a local favorite for smoked whitefish), and a walking trail along the Chautauqua Creek tributary stream nearby. For an extended stay, the Barcelona Lakeside Bed and Breakfast commands a view of the pier, harbor and lake. To explore beyond the harbor, you will need transportation, whether on two wheels or four.

• Dunkirk Harbor, maximum boat length 60 feet, depth 10 feet. Near the City of Dunkirk, Chadwick Bay offers another Safe Harbor and Lake Erie access. Here, the Dunkirk Light signals boaters to the harbor and City Pier where boaters can tie up for a few hours or arrange an extended stay with Holiday Harbor Marina. Nearby, the Clarion Hotel offers waterfront accommodations and dining. Located at Point Gratiot and open for tours May through October, the Dunkirk Lighthouse is a historical site as well as a working lighthouse and veterans museum. With a 61-foot tower and a 27-mile range, the light is one of the most prominent on Lake Erie. And, for lighthouse buffs, the original third-order Fresnel lens still shines its light across the water. Guided museum tours include a climb of the Dunkirk Lighthouse’s spiral stairs (approximately 50 steps to the upper observation level), a walk through the restored 1800 lighthouse keeper’s home, and the surrounding lighthouse grounds. Numerous nautical and U.S. veteran artifacts are displayed throughout the site.

• Sunset Bay, maximum length 35 feet, depth 6 feet or less. Sunset Bay near the Village of Silver Creek is Chautauqua County’s most popular port of entry, often drawing summer vacationers from Buffalo. Boaters can access the area via private and state-owned launches, with extended stay options and restrooms with showers. Nearby vacation rentals, a large sandy beach, paddleboat and kayak rentals, a beach club and restaurant provide multi-day activity and fun for families and groups.