More than a Skyline

The river: Intimate and refreshed

The Chicago River swoops into the city from the north before bisecting; one branch flows east into Lake Michigan, while the South Branch flows towards Indiana. Today, the river is a hub of activity, full of boat tours, water taxis, kayakers and sailboats. A recent initiative to improve the Riverwalk has created beautiful seating and public spaces. However, the Chicago River wasn’t always so enticing.

Margaret Frisbie, executive director of the environmental nonprofit Friends of the Chicago River, says it wasn’t until the 1960s and ’70s that cleanup efforts really got underway on the Chicago River. Historically, the river flowed the opposite direction and was used as a dumping ground for the city and its inhabitants.

“They raised the city out of the swamp, as they say, in the 1850s,” Frisbie says. All that additional sewage made its way down the river and into Lake Michigan, the city’s source of drinking water. That’s when city planners got the idea to reverse the flow of the river, Frisbie says.

Through the construction of the Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal from 1889 to 1900, the river was reversed and the city’s drinking water was saved. Boaters can learn more about the history of the Chicago River and its role in industrial Chicago at the McCormick Bridgehouse & Chicago River Museum, located at the intersection of Michigan Avenue and the river.

Although it has taken some time for the river to shed its unsanitary image, Frisbie says it has benefitted from intense cleanup efforts over the past few decades. Today, the river is no longer part of the city’s sewage system and is thoroughly filtered.

“The water quality is immensely better today than it was even 10 years ago,” Frisbie says. “People are falling in love with the Chicago River.”

You can’t blame them. The river offers a more intimate glimpse of the city and has undergone a number of transformations to become more accessible to the public. Melanie Perez, a media relations director at Choose Chicago, says one of the most exciting recent developments is the Chicago Riverwalk expansion, which was completed in late 2016.

“Boaters get the best of both worlds — urban lifestyle and a cosmopolitan destination — with the tranquility, beauty and recreation of the water,” Perez says. The newly extended Chicago Riverwalk runs for about three miles along the river and is divided into six different “rooms” that boast different features, such as an outdoor seating and restaurant area; a section for kayak rentals; a plaza for families to enjoy the water; and a series of piers with floating wetland gardens.

Visitors can cruise up the river and under the city’s 18 moveable bridges — the most of any city in the world. During the boating season, the bridges lift to let sailboats out of storage and down the river on Wednesday and Saturday mornings (check the schedule at chicagoloopbridges.com).

Boaters may tie up on the river at docking areas near City Winery and Marina City (known as the “Corncob” buildings) using the Dockwa app. Those willing to explore on foot should wander a few blocks north to the River North neighborhood to try out some of the city’s finest dining. Hubbard Street in particular boasts a number of trendy spots.

Those who would rather let others navigate through the river can hop on a water taxi (perfect for a trip to Chinatown for dim sum), rent out a few kayaks, or catch an architecture boat tour to learn fascinating facts about the city’s history and architecture. Chicago Architecture Foundation tours (Architecture.org) and Wendella Boat cruises (windellaboats.com) are two of the most popular. Another great option is renting a boat from Chicago Electric Boat Company (chicagoelectricboats.com). You can hire a captain or tour guide for a day, or captain your own electric boat (with a designated driver) and bring your own beer and tunes! New this year, Odyssey Cruises is offering Chicago River dinner cruises aboard a glass-enclosed boat with unbeatable views (odysseycruises.com).

The neighborhoods: Quiet and local

While the “Loop” — Chicago’s downtown area —is the most popular tourist spot, the bordering neighborhoods have plenty to offer visitors.

“You can have the hyper-urban, populated experience downtown and go to the museums and restaurants; Or, you can go into the neighborhoods and be part of a marina,” says Felicia Schneiderhan. She lived on a boat in Chicago for three years with her husband and detailed their adventure in her book, “Newlyweds Afloat: Married Bliss and Mechanical Breakdowns While Living Aboard a Trawler.”
One of Schneiderhan’s biggest pieces of advice to boaters visiting Chicago: Explore the neighborhoods to the north and south.

“It’s just a different feel,” Schneiderhan says. “You get to see part of the city you’d miss if you just went downtown.”

Starting north and moving south, Montrose, Belmont and Diversey harbors are popular options. Families will enjoy all three. Montrose Harbor is close to two beaches: One for humans and one for dogs. Those who visit Diversey Harbor can walk to the free Lincoln Park Zoo and the Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum. A word of caution: Due to bridge restrictions, only powerboats are allowed at Diversey Harbor.

“You could spend two weeks going to different harbors and exploring the neighborhoods,” Schneiderhan says.

Both Belmont and Diversey harbors border the Lakeview and Lincoln Park neighborhoods. Boaters can hop on a bus, rent a Divvy bike, or call a car to explore a number of small shops, restaurants and bars throughout the area. Ambitious boaters can even take a short trip from Belmont Harbor to Wrigley Field to catch a Cubs game over the summer.

Boaters who would rather stay closer to the water will find a ton of green park space and city views. The newly renovated Theater on the Lake, a beautiful 1920s building, contains a restaurant and theater, and sits right on the lakefront path next to Diversey Harbor near Fullerton Avenue. Sip cocktails on the “flybridge” at Castaways, a fun ship-shaped restaurant at North Avenue Beach.

“The lakefront is definitely one of the city’s gems, but its architecture, cultural offerings, delightful food scene and diverse neighborhoods are also great reasons to explore the city,” Perez says.

The people: Bringing the community together

No matter which part of the city boaters choose to explore — the lakefront, the river, or the neighborhood marinas — they’ll find one thing in common: A welcoming community of boaters.

“For somebody coming to Chicago for the first time, if you’re not familiar [with the city], it’s ok,” Schneiderhan says. She advises boaters to not be afraid of truly exploring and anchoring places overnight. “If something goes wrong, someone is going to help you out.”

Perez agrees: “Chicago is best known for being a welcoming and friendly Midwest city. It has so much to offer.”