Queen of the North

Keep history alive

Back in the day, this area was called Not-a-pe-ka-gon — literally translating to “river with heads on sticks” — after a 17th century battle between the Ottawa and Mascouten Indians along the Pere Marquette River. Severed heads from the defeated Mascouten warriors were used to send an unmistakable message to all. In 1675, after the death of Jesuit missionary and explorer Father Jacques Marquette, his name was given in memory to the village, lake and river; however, in 1804, the city was eventually renamed after Lumber Baron James Ludington.

With few roads leading through the state and deep into the forests, ships traversed the mighty waters of Lake Michigan to harvest the area’s highly prized white pine and then ferry it in railroad cars back to Chicago. The car ferries arriving on the shores quickly set up the first sawmills, which began operating in 1849. Soon Ludington was home to one of the largest army of car ferries in the world.

Rebecca Berringer, executive director of the Mason County Historical Society, explains the Pere Marquette River was instrumental in locating this lumber town.

“The river coming into Lake Michigan allowed the loggers to bring the felled trees to the shoreline,” she says, “This would have been the late 1840s and there was a high demand for the wood in home construction. Lumber was king.”

By 1911, the white pine was mostly gone, but many who had come to the area stayed. Then, thanks to its premier location, those seeking sun, sand and gorgeous vistas began to arrive in Ludington.

Berringer and her team keeps history alive at Historic White Pine Village and Port of Ludington Maritime Museum, with interactive and digital displays that show the impact of the lumber and shipbuilding industries in the region. Both museums are very hands-on and family friendly. Historic White Pine Village is located on 23 acres along the southern end of Ludington, with a sign leading the way to a very large and comprehensive display of historical buildings and sites. The Maritime Museum is located near the water in the former U.S. Coast Guard Station, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

“In 1849, the first stick-built home was constructed on the peninsula, and that private home became everything from hosting the county seat to housing the jail in the basement,” Berringer says. “The Village was founded in 1976 around that home; The Mason County Courthouse, along with over 30 buildings from the mid- 1800s through the 1950s, were all moved there — all depicting the history of Mason County. It’s an interactive experience for those who want to feel and understand what it was like to live back then.”

The exhibits are up close and personal, with first-person interpreters in period-appropriate costumes who are able to speak knowledgeably about their area of expertise. During the summer months, there are Living History Days, where visitors can actually try the machines and the various artisan activities, like quilting and candle-making.

The Maritime Museum was opened in 2017 and is a completely different but complementary experience. In a three-story, 11,000-square-foot building overlooking the shoreline, the Badger and the North Breakwater Lighthouse, the story is told of the local Coast Guard and the shipbuilding industry.

“It is state of the art, with digital and active immersion to help people understand the maritime history by letting them actually experience some of the activities from back in the day,” Berringer explains. “In the Pilot House you can guide the ship back into the port with a circa early-1920s view, help as a dock walloper to load the blocks onto the ship, or climb to the top of our large model North Breakwater Lighthouse.”

Four-season destination

Ludington is a four-season destination, with fall color tours and winter months given to snowshoeing and cross-country skiing amid the rolling hills. But the highly anticipated summer months begin in May with the maiden voyage of the Badger. Many events over the season take place near the two marinas — the Ludington Municipal Marina and Harbor View Marina — which are a short walk away from downtown. For those who plan on arriving by sea, there are usually slips available, but they do fill up quickly so reservations are recommended.

Both marinas are owned by the city of Ludington and managed by Jim Christensen. They are both public and feature many of the same amenities at both locations; however, Harbor View is slightly larger (with 160 slips for vessels up to 60 feet and wall ties for vessels up to 100 feet) and has more features available for boaters.

“Really it sometimes comes down to how long folks plan to be here,” Christensen explains. “The Municipal is great for shorts stops and Harbor View when more amenities are needed. It’s great to be able to offer both!”

Between the two marinas is the five-acre Waterfront Park featuring a playground, paved walking paths and a sculpture trail, with nine bronze sculptures on display proudly depicting Ludington’s history. Each summer, two open-air live concerts are held at the park’s amphitheater, with 3,000 to 5,000 people who come out to enjoy the music.

“We work really hard to provide free opportunities for the whole family to enjoy, and these concerts are just great, with such a unique location,” Miller says. “People can enjoy them on the shore, at their condos along the water, even in slips at the marinas.” The Sunset Beach Bonfires are also free and very popular. They take place on the fourth Thursdays of June, July and August. “Along with the bonfire, there is live music, so folks can enjoy the sunset,” Miller explains. “It’s a casual evening, but a special treat where the whole community comes together!”

Boaters can anchor up off Stearns Park, the city’s largest beach on Lake Michigan with picnic tables, BBQs, plus a skate park and playground for the kids. For those feeling adventurous, the Ludington Breakwater Lighthouse is a half-mile walk down the pier and is open for summer climbs.

Those coming to the Ludington area to do a bit of fishing will find many places to drop in a line or two, and fishing charters are available at the marinas. The Ludington Offshore Classic Fishing Tournament in July is one of the biggest tournaments held along the West Michigan shoreline, with events for everyone.

“Our location on Lake Michigan provides hot fishing, and the tournament is a high-adrenaline six-day competition that returns all the money to the winners,” Miller says. “Last year we gave out just under $70,000!”

Explore downtown

With the downtown area easily accessible from the marinas, boaters can explore all that Ludington has to offer. A quick walk leads visitors to two fun attractions: the Ludington Area Center for the Arts and the Sandcastles Children’s Museum. The former, known as LACA, hosts musical performances, art exhibits and educational programs. LACA also manages several events throughout the year, including the juried West Shore Art Fair held the first full weekend in July. Children will love the hands-on Sandcastles Children’s Museum and its 30 interactive exhibits, including a climbing wall, vet center, S.S. Badger playship, ice cream parlor, LudRock sound stage and more.

For craft beer aficionados, visit The Mitten Bar, selling Michigan-only crafted beer, wine and spirits; Jamesport Brewing Company, brewing up to 14 unique craft beers at a time while offering a hearty lunch and dinner menu; and Ludington Bay Brewing Co. with craft beers on tap and tasty menu items, like the Guac Burger, Crab Rangoon Pizza and The Notorious Adult Mac & Cheese.

For sushi (and much more), head to The Blu Moon Bistro, and for those craving pizza, Chuck Wagon has been slinging pies since 1984. Grab some made-from-scratch breakfast or brunch at Cafe 106; try southern-style BBQ at The Q Smokehouse; enjoy some Mexican bites alongside a glass of whiskey or scotch at Barley & Rye; order home-cooked meals at Old Hamlin Restaurant, known as “Ludington’s Historic Family Restaurant Since 1942;” or taste “creative cuisine and classic cocktails” at Table 14. Finish any meal by satisfying the sweet tooth with some ice cream at the family owned House of Flavors.

Love Wines Winery of Ludington recently opened its new tasting room on Washington Avenue this year, featuring wine from locally grown fruit and grapes. For only $4, visitors can taste six different wines.

For those who enjoy less boozy fruit, check out The Jam Farm, whipping up jams straight from the 40-acre family farm. Grab some of Grandma’s Beer Bread Mix, dips, butters and more before you leave.

For all your provisioning needs, stop in at Biercamp Market, offering deli meats, local produce, beer on tap and much more.

Queen of the North

Miller suggests the Ludington State Park is a must-do when visiting this area. Nicknamed “Queen of the North,” it’s considered by many as the most well-appointed state park in Michigan. The sheer size of it and what is contained on its grounds is impressive, earning it the recognition of being voted the No. 1 park in the Midwest by Midwest Living magazine. Located eight miles north of downtown Ludington, the park covers 5,300 acres and is located between Lake Michigan and Hamlin Lake, with the Big Sable River connecting the two.

There are 355 campsites, and miles of white sand beaches on both lakes. Park Manager Jim Gallie agrees it’s a great day trip; however, for those who have time, he encourages spending it in the heart of the park.

“This is just a great place to stay, with so much here to do that to get a taste for it — to really partake — it’s helpful to be here for multiple days,” Gallie says. “Getting off the beaten path might mean taking the only canoe trail in the state park system, or in the winter months follow a lantern-lit self-guided snowshoe trail in the dark.”

According to Gallie, there were national park architects involved in the design of Ludington State Park, and it features one of the few Arts & Crafts-style beach houses still standing.

“It definitely feels like a national park, especially when you see the Beach House built in 1933 but beautifully maintained,” he says with pride. “There is a lot of history in that; the bricks used in its construction are from the old salt factory.”

There are boat launches on both lakes, and Hamlin Lake is popular with kayakers and paddleboarders, with several rental sites available. Visitors can also rent tubes to float down the Big Sable River. The Great Lakes Visitor Center provides many special activities throughout the year and is a great first stop when arriving.

Gallie points out the environmental diversity found in the park can be explored by hiking and biking.

“If someone isn’t into watersports, there are 25 miles of trails, including many running through dunes, wetlands and old growth forest,” he says.

Naturalist Alan Wernette and his staff are also available daily to give more in-depth information for those wanting to dig a bit deeper, whether it’s about the history of the park, its natural resources or its many animal inhabitants who live here year-round. “We are very fortunate to have Alan; he is knowledgeable about many different things in the park,” Gallie says. “That really gives folks visiting here a much deeper experience when they can learn about the lighthouse or maybe the historic lumbering sites.”

The iconic black and white Big Sable Point Lighthouse, maintained by the Sable Points Lighthouse Keepers Association, was built in 1867 and stretches more than 100 feet tall. Visitors can reach the lighthouse via a two-mile trail, and then can explore the grounds, tour the original light keeper’s quarters (now a gift shop) and climb the tower.

Or venture a bit north of the state park to the Nordhouse Dunes Wilderness Area, a stretch of 3,450 acres featuring 140-foot-tall dunes, ponds, marshes, 10 miles of trails and four miles of undeveloped Lake Michigan shoreline.

Gallie encourages ending a full day of exploring Ludington on the beach.

“The way the light plays off the sand dunes when the sun sets and turns everything to gold is always fascinating,” he says.