Head “Strait” to Mackinaw City

Historically, the northernmost point of Michigan’s lower peninsula — the tip of the Mitten — Mackinaw City was a meeting place for generations of Native Americans, fur traders and voyageurs.

Veteran boaters Bob and Lynne Frye joined that list years ago when they discovered the array of sailing options and adventures to be had in and around the lighthouse-studded Straits of Mackinac, where Lake Huron and Lake Michigan meet.

For the past four years, the Michigan couple has kept their 41-foot Hunter sailboat, Plan B, docked at the Mackinaw City Municipal Marina, one of two full-service marinas in this busy summer resort town that’s a jumping-off point for world-renowned Mackinac Island and Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (U.P.). The other marina, just to the south, is the newer and larger Straits State Harbor, which opened in 2009.

“It’s just like the old fur traders,” Bob says of his home port in this scenic Great Lakes crossroads, where the Mackinac Bridge — “Mighty Mac” — has loomed over the landscape since 1957. “There are so many places to sail to from here; it’s centrally located to some of the best freshwater cruising in the world.”

In a region rich in history and natural beauty, the Fryes enjoy sailing out on the big water of Lake Huron to admire the antique boats and boathouses in Les Cheneaux Islands (“the Channels”), spread along 12 miles of the U.P. shoreline. The 36 islands are anchored by the communities of Cedarville and Hessel, where the Antique and Wooden Boat Show (COVID-canceled last year) is scheduled for August 14, 2021.

Other favorite forays include rustic Bois Blanc (locals call it “Bob-lo”) Island; DeTour Village at the U.P.’s eastern tip; and, of course, perennially popular Mackinac Island (see sidebar on p. 47).

“It’s fun going through the Round Island Passage and seeing all the beautiful homes on Mackinac Island and, right across, the wilderness preserve on Round Island,” Lynne says.

The red and white Round Island Light is always a hit with camera-toting tourists on the ferries that buzz across the Straits between Mackinac Island, Mackinaw City and St. Ignace in the U.P.

Just west of the Mackinac Bridge in Lake Michigan, St. Helena Island is another pleasant excursion. It’s home to a restored light station and the footings of a once-thriving 19th-century fishing village.

To get there from Mackinaw City, boaters cruise under the picturesque bridge and past Colonial Michilimackinac, a restored wooden fort and village that dates to 1715. Costumed interpreters present living history demonstrations, including cannon and musket firings, throughout the day.

The story of how the soldiers, fur traders and Native Americans lived — and how Michilimackinac changed hands from the French to the British — offers a fascinating look at 18th-century life in the northern wilderness before the fort was closed and relocated to Mackinac Island in 1780-81.

A short stroll from the fort, the Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse, circa 1889, showcases the restored keepers’ quarters, the Straits of Mackinac Shipwreck Museum and fog signal whistle demonstrations (bring earplugs!).

Welcome, transients

For boaters who prefer to relax dockside, there’s plenty of activity in and around the marinas in Mackinaw City, which, despite its name, is actually a small, family friendly village; its population of 850 swells to accommodate summer tourists.

Stretching along several blocks, the downtown — packed with souvenir and fudge shops, bars and eateries — is walkable from both the recently upgraded city marina, where the Fryes are among 62 seasonals, and the quieter Straits State Harbor, where 112 of the 132 slips (plus five broadsides) welcome transients with boats up to 125 feet.

Adjacent to the bustling Shepler’s Ferry dock, which celebrated its 75th Anniversary in 2020, the city marina maintains a dozen free bikes for grocery shopping and quick village jaunts. Rental bikes and electric scooters are available in town at Audio Visual Central. Pro tip: It’s cheaper to take bikes rented in Mackinaw City to car-free Mackinac Island than to rent on the island, even with the ferries’ bike transfer fee, according to the Mackinaw City Chamber of Commerce.

With 84 slips, plus 600 feet of broadside dockage, the city marina can accommodate as many as 40 transient boats up to 200 feet long, says Harbormaster Chris West.

“If boaters want to come up here and work, we have Wi-Fi they can utilize,” he says, citing $600,000 in recent improvements to wireless internet service, power pedestals and docks. “We focus on customer service, really trying to make their stay nice.”

Transients should have no problem finding space at Straits State Harbor, says Gerald Vieau, harbormaster of the 12-year-old, energy-efficient marina with a fishing pier. “Usually, the most we are is three-quarters full,” he says, and adds that slips typically are available even during the busy Chicago to Mackinac and Port Huron to Mackinac sailboat races, scheduled July 17 and July 24, respectively.

To avoid confusion, Vieau says, boaters should know that Mackinaw City Municipal Marina (city-run) and Straits State Harbor (state-run) use the same online reservation system (midnrreservations.com). “At least once a week we have someone who shows up in the wrong place,” he says.