The Long Way Back to Killarney

Every April for the last 15 years, we have planned our summer boating adventures for June and August: From Mackinac Island’s Lilac Festival and the Benjamin Islands to the West Coast of Michigan, and our all-time favorite port, Killarney, Ontario.

This year would be bittersweet: We were boatless for the first time in many years.

Every boater ultimately faces that day: Maneuvering in the cramped engine room is too difficult and balancing on the foredeck is too precarious. We all know it’s inevitable — it’s time to sell the big boat.

This sale came faster than we had planned. The second buyer immediately fell in love with Final Rinse, our 44-foot Sea Ray, and met our price. My husband, Captain RJ, had kept her in pristine mechanical condition, upgraded all electronics, and winterized and stored her inside every winter. I, as first mate, liked to keep her ship-shape inside, accessible and comfy, with a sparkling galley. Of course the buyer loved her.

Before we could have second thoughts, Final Rinse passed her sea trials and inspections with flying colors, and then she was gone.

By land

We were not ready to give up the thrill of our beloved Killarney. If not by sea, then we would visit again by land. The following June, that is exactly what we planned.

Killarney had changed since our last cruise. The charm and character were retained, like a beloved classic vessel; the pristine wilderness and quaint buildings remained mostly untouched. Killarney 2.0 was tastefully upgraded with new docks, fuel and electricity, and refurbished and decorated existing structures. The original 1843 Pitfield’s General Store was given a new coat of exterior paint but left the same warm hardwood floors and original counters; the proprietor is a family member of the original owners. A stunning new conference center, Canada House Conference Centre at Killarney Mountain Lodge, was situated a respectable distance from the distinctive old town.

Getting to Killarney by sea took about 12 hours on our 44-foot Sea Ray. We would depart from Charlevoix and cruise to Mackinac Island or Drummond Island. My preferred stop was Drummond Island. Newly constructed docks, walking distance to a lovely downtown and excellent, casual fish restaurants made for a quiet overnight and an opportunity to pass customs. If you prefer action, choose Mackinac Island for its charm, shops and nightlife. Gore Bay and Little Current are alternate stops if you need fuel or are on a more leisurely trip. But we usually chose to get directly to Killarney.

Now that we were visiting by land, we crossed at the Port Huron Blue Water Bridge into Canada. We chose to follow the coastline as we were not in a hurry. The coastline winds through small towns, pastoral farmland and plenty of inviting spots to stop along the way. We drove up the Bruce Peninsula to Tobermory, took the Chi-Cheemaun car ferry to Manitoulin Island, drove up the road to Little Current, crossed the bridge, then followed the signs to Sudbury, and eventually arrived at Killarney. We stayed overnight along the way; there are some small hotels or inns. Sometimes the journey is as much fun as the destination.

There are no major highways to speed you along. If you prefer to get there faster, it’s quicker to follow the highway route 265 miles from Toronto. A worthwhile stop is the Group of Seven Art Museum and gardens.

Beyond the harbor

Staying in the newly refreshed — not demolished — Sportsman’s Inn Resort & Marina allowed us to fully experience the harbor. We enjoyed the sounds of the loon calls and sailboat rigging rippling in the wind, and the smells of fresh water, all from the balcony of our room.

Some of the original log cabins and 1960s charm of the bar area were remodeled in 1962 by Maury and Ann East and remain, adding a rustic but chic feel. Current owners of Killarney Mountain Lodge are Holden and Carrie Rhodes. In 2015, they had a new vision for Killarney. By 2019, they had updated the Sportsman’s Inn, cabins, lodge and added a huge conference center. Killarney 2.0 retains its character and comprehensive rustic beauty while respecting the culture, landscape and purpose of the town. Killarney is a shining example of development done perfectly.

Our adventure began with a hearty lunch at the Sportsman’s Inn. Traditional pub food was on the menu, including poutine and fish and chips.

We booked a sunset sailboat ride, and then the next day a trip to Baie Fine. Long-time resident and First Nation guide, Bumby, piloted us out the channel between George Island and into the Baie Fine. As we puttered along with another couple onboard, the area became more isolated with higher mountains and fewer cabins. Bumby also delivered mail and supplies to the more isolated areas where we were bound. His knowledge of geology, flora and fauna, and history of the area kept us quietly occupied without a canned travel spiel.

The soft putter of his boat led us past a few local cabins. As the channel grew more sparsely populated, the mountains and surrounding rocky areas came to dominate the scenery. Our first stop brought us to a retired nurse to supply groceries and mail. She literally lived on a large rock in a cabin heated by wood, a propane stove, and surrounded by decades of books, antiques and quilts. She welcomed us in as we carried in the supplies.

Two young boys, about 8 and 11 years old, expertly pulled up and docked. They made daily checks on their senior friend. The boys and their parents lived off the grid in a totally sustainable house they had built over the course of a few years. Each summer, this rock paradise was theirs to explore and support. They delighted us with stories of their wintertime in Calgary. May through September were dedicated to their Baie Fine home. The boys’ boating skills, camaraderie and sense of confidence defied their age. They seemed well-read, kind and were good conversationalists — how refreshing to meet them! They offered to hike up to Topaz Lake with us, but alas, this time our knees decided to take it easy. The night, filled with reflected stars and meteors in the sky and still water, felt like living in a wonderful bubble.

If you are looking for a freshwater experience, respite from city life, and the peacefulness of nature, come by sea or by land, but don’t miss Killarney as your next port or destination. You will find the comforts of fresh gourmet food, charming lodgings and friendly people. Summer allows for exploring the gorgeous waterways by boat, while winter makes for a snowy wilderness for ice fishing and snowmobiling.