Photo Courtesy of Explore Minnesota/Allysa Hei
Two Harbors, Minnesota, offers a nostalgic stay for pleasure boaters.
Pleasure boaters along Lake Superior’s North Shore will recognize the town of Two Harbors, Minnesota, for the frequent freighters coming and going from the loading docks. On the water, it can be thrilling — and a little intimidating — to have one of these giants glide past you towards port.
It can be easy for cruisers to pass up the chance to visit because Two Harbors doesn’t have its own marina for small boats and, because of the heavy shipping traffic, pleasure boats are not allowed to anchor in the harbor. However, small boats can tie up to the breakwall for an afternoon or overnight. And even better, there’s a sweet marina in nearby Knife River, a town worth the extra jaunt (but more about that later).
So don’t be daunted by the massive vessels of this historic shipping town. Two Harbors has a lot to offer the smaller boat crews, too.
Waterfront charm
Like many towns on Lake Superior’s shoreline, Two Harbors offers small-town friendliness with unique restaurants and shops, cultural activities and easy access to breathtaking wilderness. But the quaintness of Two Harbors, with its current population just under 4,000 people, is one-of-a-kind due to the families who mined, lumbered and fished the waters in search of a better life. A summer walk through the town with its visible history will give you the nostalgic feel for that bygone era. You may even stumble on an outdoor concert in the bandshell, followed by a tasty treat of pie and ice cream.
Two Harbors is named for the two natural bays formed a little more than 20 miles northeast of Duluth. Agate Bay sees the shipping traffic, while the adjacent Burlington Bay offers a small beach and campground. One of the best viewing spots in Agate Bay is the gazebo directly in front of the loading docks. From here, you can take in the massive, regal expanse of the docks and watch them in action. This is the first iron ore port in Minnesota, which opened to shipping and receiving in 1884. The first shipment was 6,000 tons of iron ore; the following year, 225,000 tons of ore were moving through Agate Bay.
Today, about 12 million tons are shipped through this port per year. Most ships you’ll see in Agate Bay are lakers that travel the Great Lakes, with a few of the smaller salties (ocean-going ships). They receive iron ore — a key ingredient for making steel — mined in northern Minnesota, to deliver to steel mills in Indiana, Michigan, Ohio and Ontario.
Just in front of a waterfront gazebo sits the decommissioned tug Edna G, the last coal-fired, steam-driven tug operating on the Great Lakes when it retired in 1981. First commissioned in 1896, the little tug spent its entire life (except for two years during WWI) based out of Two Harbors. With its four-person crew, the boat operated 24/7; some crew even lived onboard if they didn’t have a house in town. With a length of 110 feet and drafting 15.5 feet, Edna G. is currently listed on the National Register of Historic Places and open to tours in the warmer months. Visitors can even blow the horn.
From the gazebo, you can also see the expanse of the big lake, the breakwall where many people like to stroll for an up-close view of the ships and the renowned Light Station. The oldest continuously operated lighthouse on the North Shore, it was completed in 1892, sending a steady white light in all directions. Today it’s owned by the Lake County Historical Society, which also owns and operates the Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast as a way to maintain the historic light station. The guest experience is more than just staying overnight in a wonderful old lighthouse with an amazing view; B&B guests are “light keepers” who monitor weather, ship traffic, and raise and lower the flag each day.
From here, the Agate Bay Trail follows the lakefront through Paul Van Hoven Park, where white-tailed deer browse among the trees, over to Burlington Bay, with its small beach and campground.
Photo Courtesy of Explore Minnesota/Allysa Hei
Summer Events
Two Harbors goes all out with its summer festivals. The weekend after the Fourth of July, the town whoops it up with Heritage Days, a four-day extravaganza of music, arts and crafts, class reunions, a street dance, and not one but two parades (with buckets of candy and freezies)! Later in July, Chalk.a.Lot brings together everyone from incredible artists to neighborhood kids for a weekend celebration of sidewalk chalk art.
Photo Courtesy of Heritage Days Facebook
Knife River Marina
This 100-slip full-service marina operated by Minnesota’s DNR offers a double launch ramp, fuel dock with diesel and premium gas, seasonal and transient slips, pump-out, haul-out, repair, winter storage and a ship store. 218-834-6076
North Shore Visitor
northshorevisitor.com
Lake County Chamber of Commerce
218-834-2600
lakecounty-chamber.com
Lake County Historical Society
218-834-4898
lakecountyhistoricalsociety.org
Photo by Rich Hoeg
Photo Courtesy of Museum/Amy Meredith
Working on the railroad
But don’t leave Agate Bay just yet; because just behind the harbor are the low buildings of the downtown area and the historic D&IR Railroad Depot Museum, quite possibly the whole reason the town of Two Harbors stands here today.
When Charlemagne Tower bought the Duluth and Iron Range (D&IR) Railroad in 1882, the 8-year-old company had not yet laid any track. Tower bought the railroad because he needed a way to transport ore from his inland Vermilion Iron Range mines to Lake Superior for shipping. Construction on a line from the mine to Two Harbors was completed by 1884 — 70 miles that was to become one of the most successful short-line railroads in the history of the country.
The line grew to reach Duluth, Ely and other stops, transporting passengers as well as freight.
In 1961, all passenger services between Duluth and Two Harbors stopped, and the depot was donated to Lake County, and later listed on the National Register of Historic Places. In the 1980s, freight service stopped, and the line is now owned by the St. Louis and Lake Counties Regional Railroad Authority. Today, the North Shore Scenic Railroad out of Duluth operates tour rides between Duluth and Two Harbors, and the depot exhibits emphasize the three big industries of the area: Iron mining and the railroad, timber and commercial fishing. They also have two historic locomotives on display, including the Yellowstone Mallet, the largest locomotive ever built, and one of only three in existence. The steam-powered behemoth was slow, but pulled what four diesels pull today.
The town of Two Harbors started as a camp for the railroad construction workers, many of them immigrants, who inspired “Whiskey Row,” about four acres with warehouses, hotels, saloons, shops and restaurants. This was a rough place for the railroad builders, known for drinking, crime and carousing. But by the late 1880s, when the railroad was completed, these men sent for their families. Churches were built, and a police department and town council were formed. Two Harbors began to take shape as a family town, with a feel for tradition and home life that you can sense even now as you walk downtown.
Photo Courtesy Explore Minnesota/Allysa Hei
Explore downtown
Across from the Depot, you can stop by Castle Danger Brewery. Relax on the patio or visit the taproom of this much-loved local favorite overlooking the lake while sipping beer made with fresh Lake Superior water, with names like “Mosaic Fresh Hop IPA” and “Phantom of the Hopera.”
From here, you can walk to a number of unique shops. If you’re looking for boat supplies, folks at the general store and hardware store will be happy to assist. Neighbor to Neighbor thrift store always hides some unique treasures worth hunting. The 50-booth craft mall Sweet Peas gift shop overflows with creations from local artists ranging from quilts to pottery to handcrafted candles and soaps. North Shore Architectural Antiques focuses on local historic building elements from the 1850s to 1950s, when this region was developed with architecture from the Victorian, Arts & Crafts and Art Deco movements.
Waterfront Gallery features fine art photography, restoration and framing, along with unusual gifts. If you’re looking for agates, Agate City Rocks & Gifts, the largest rock shop on the shore, can help supplement what you didn’t find on the lakeshore. And on Saturday mornings, don’t miss the farmers market, where locally grown produce and more is available between late June to the end of October (unless it snows!). When you get hungry for local eats, check out the Vanilla Bean, Black Woods Bar and Grill, or Do North Pizzeria.
If you’re in need of a little more history before leaving the downtown area, visit the Two Harbors Public Library, a Carnegie Library, which opened in 1909. In 1983, an addition was added, but you can still relax in the original space and peruse the archives room with its collections of photographs and newspapers dating back to the late 1890s.
Biking mecca
Branching out from downtown, you’ll discover a recent Two Harbors partnership: Cedar Coffee Company and Spokengear Bike Shop. Sip a fancy latte surrounded by birch and pine, or try some delicious baked goods while checking out the newest fat tire bikes, accessories and gear. Get your bike serviced, or rent a bike for the day to explore the town and surrounding area. This is an unexpected haven for cyclists.
Two Harbors offers some terrific paved trails, accessible from the bike shop parking lot. One of the best biking events in this small town is an annual biking scavenger hunt. The event was started by then-10-year-old Brooke Torgerson, who got interested in fat tire biking with her parents, Mike and Jeni, and wanted to do something to help out her town. With the support of Spokengear, Brooke garnered local donations and organized the route. Participants ride past the municipal golf course and hiking trail (where it’s rumored you can see moose), along the lakefront, and under the railroad bridge, answering riddles along the way. One riddle will even take you for a free ice cream at Dairy Queen. The money raised during the event benefits a local nonprofit.
If you’re looking for a more challenging course, Highway 61 is a popular two-lane highway with adequate shoulders for cyclists to cruise along the lakefront. And there’s the Gitchi-Gami State Trail, which when complete will be an 89-mile paved trail following the lakeshore between Two Harbors and Grand Marais, Minnesota. Approximately 29 miles are now complete, with the longest segment being the 14-mile section from Gooseberry Falls State Park north to Beaver Bay.
Follow this path and along the way you’ll see the iconic Split Rock Lighthouse and the under-the-radar Iona’s Beach, also called the pink beach for its rhyolite rocks that sometimes “sing” when the wind hits them just right. Though, you may just decide to spend the day in gorgeous Gooseberry Falls, where you can explore miles of wilderness hiking trails or enjoy a picnic lunch at one of the stunning waterfalls.
On your way out of Gooseberry, you may have to stop for a piece of pie at one of two local restaurants, almost as iconic as the state park: Rustic Inn and Betty’s Pies. There’s a long-standing argument over which restaurant has the better pie; you may have to try both just to see for yourself.
Venture to Knife River
Considering there’s so much to see and do in Two Harbors, just where can you dock your boat for more than an afternoon? Five and a half miles south of Two Harbors you’ll find the Knife River Marina. This friendly marina has all the basic amenities — fuel, pump-out, water, electricity, showers — plus a community of locals to help you settle right in. The marina is known for its charter fishing, particularly Reel Escape, whose Captain Mark has nearly four decades of experience fishing Lake Superior.
While you’re there, don’t miss exploring the town of Knife River. The adjacent Knife River beach gives hours of meditative agate hunting; you may even venture a dip in the cold water, followed by a lakefront campfire. Across old Highway 61, you can find the Great! Lakes Candy Kitchen with its to-die-for handmade chocolates and other Lake Superior candies. Up the road a bit, visit Russ Kendall’s Smoke House for locally caught smoked trout and salmon. You can find a post office in town, a yarn store and some rugged Knife River hiking trails to help you work off all that chocolate.
While Knife River summers are lovely, the best time to visit the little town may be the first week of December, when the entire community transforms into Julebyen, a three-day Scandinavian Christmas celebration. Here you’ll find everything delightful, wintry and warm: Holiday arts and crafts, live music, Norwegian baked goods and bygone village games (can you carry the frozen trout in the relay?). Perhaps best of all, the railroad that built Two Harbors gets a new role with Troll Trains to Troll Canyon, an epic train adventure to delight kids (and adults) as they ride the rail in search of real trolls in the forest. In these forests along Lake Superior’s North Shore, you never know what you’ll find!
Photos Courtesy of Castle Danger and Minnesota SNA
