Whitecaps & Bottle Caps

Maritime and beer history

While Wisconsin’s largest city is often assumed to have been founded by beer barons in the mid to late 1860s, even earlier — during the 1700s — were the French fur traders. And even before that, American Indian tribes lived off of the rich, fertile land. Throughout its history, Milwaukee has served as a place of maritime importance, enabling ships to traverse from the St. Lawrence Seaway into Lake Michigan, by way of Lake Erie and Lake Huron. Port Milwaukee, in operation since 1835 and much larger than Chicago’s port, transports commodities that include salt, limestone, steel, fertilizers and ethanol. In 2020 the port handled its highest annual volume of cargo, according to Port Milwaukee data. Viking Cruises and Pearl Seas — two small-ship cruise lines — have already started to market itineraries that stop in Milwaukee. Housed at the Milwaukee Public Library’s Central Library branch in downtown Milwaukee, the Wisconsin Marine Historical Society maintains the Great Lakes Maritime Collection.

In addition to these deep maritime roots, beer barons from Germany are largely responsible for growing Milwaukee on a commercial level. Breweries like Pabst, Schlitz, Miller and Blatz were all brewed here by the late 1800s.

Museums and attractions

You needn’t leave the lakeshore to visit two major cultural attractions: The Santiago Calatrava-designed Milwaukee Art Museum (a work so marvelous TIME Magazine named it “the best new design of the year” in 2001) and Discovery World (a science center for all ages with a replica 19th-century three-masted wooden, gaff-rigged schooner called S/V Denis Sullivan). The art museum is attached to the 1957 Milwaukee County War Memorial Center, designed by Eero Saarinen and an events center today. Adjacent to these three institutions, just to the south, is Lakeshore State Park, a fantastic spot to stretch your legs and be close to the water.

Simply strolling the streets of downtown Milwaukee reveals hints of its German-immigrant heritage, from the 1895 city hall, looming into the sky from its angular position along North Water Street. Until Hamburg, Germany, unveiled its new city hall in 1897, this was the world’s tallest building, and the older building actually inspired Milwaukee’s. The Flemish Renaissance Revival style is the masterwork of architect Henry Koch. Further south, in the Third Ward, which is another walkable neighborhood, former meat- and vegetable-packing warehouses are now home to art galleries, clothing boutiques, cafes and restaurants. The Milwaukee Institute of Art & Design, on Erie Street, frequently hosts student and community art shows. Renting bikes from Bublr (just look for a kiosk) provides an opportunity to explore the Oak Leaf Trail’s 135 miles of trails for hiking and bicycling or the 14-mile paved Hank Aaron Trail stretching from Milwaukee’s lakeshore to the Milwaukee-Waukesha county line.

Nearly every weekend in summer is a different ethnic or cultural festival at the 75-acre Henry Maier Festival Park, anchored by Summerfest, the longest-running musical festival lasting about 10 days from late June through early July. In 2022, the festival’s format pivots to three consecutive weekends, filled with live-music performances from internationally known acts, as well as food and beer stands highlighting Milwaukee institutions. Other summer festivals at the grounds, which are next to Lakeshore State Park, include Polish Fest, German Fest, Irish Fest and Festa Italiana, filled with music, crafts and food.

For some on-water fun, try Boat MKE, located on the Milwaukee River in the East Town neighborhood. Here you can rent circular donut boats (complete with a donut bar), retro boats, a Duffy electric boat or a speed boat, which riders can take out to Lake Michigan.

Dining

For a taste of Key West — complete with the laid-back vibe and slices of key-lime pie and lobster rolls — dock at Barnacle Bud’s, adjacent to SkipperBud’s south of Walker’s Point and north of Bay View. (SkipperBud’s offers dry-dock and winter storage, not on the water, but it’s still a popular hub for sailors.) A recent expansion at Barnacle Bud’s means even more outdoor seating.

Naturally, Milwaukee’s monikers of cheese and brats are not hard to find. Scoop up both at Milwaukee Public Market, designed after Seattle’s Pike Place Market, which highlights food artisans in the state, including award-winning Wisconsin cheesemakers at West Allis Cheese & Sausage Shoppe or a “Milwaukee Brat” (grilled beer brat stuffed in a pretzel bun) at Fultz Family Market, with a side of truffle frites.

For a peek at innovation, drop into one of the country’s few urban creameries: Clock Shadow Creamery, inside an eco-friendly building in Walker’s Point. Witness cheese curds being made on select afternoons, although you can always score a bag in the store, along with cheese from other Wisconsin creameries.

If fine dining is a must — paired with a Lake Michigan view — two Bartolotta Restaurants’ eateries deliver. Wedged between Milwaukee Art Museum and Discovery World, Harbor House is a sleek, narrow and glass-walled dining room jutting out into Lake Michigan serving oysters, surf and turf, and one of the city’s best wine lists. On a nice day, sink into Adirondack chairs on the patio overlooking the art museum. In the eastern edge of Frederick Law Olmsted-designed Lake Park, Lake Park Bistro is a veritable trip to France with dishes like butter-poached lobster and artichokes in a lobster beurre blanc with aromatic herbs, a dish Chef Paul Bartolotta unearthed while an apprentice at the Michelin three-star Le Moulin de Mougins on the Cote d’Azur. Dine inside a former park pavilion, its windows framing lake views. The prix-fixe Haut Bistro Menu is a four-course experience folding in a starter, middle course, main course and dessert.

Beer

It would be practically criminal to not talk about how to experience Milwaukee’s craft beer scene. While most major cities foster craft brewers today, what’s unique about Brew City is that the suds hearken back to its roots. While you can still tour (and taste) at Miller Brewing Company, there are also 30-some breweries to whet your palate; most debuted within the last decade. A handy Brew City Beer Pass Brewery Map on Visit Milwaukee’s website is a great place to start plotting your route. Many tasting rooms flaunt beautiful water views, such as City Lights Brewing Co.’s perch along the Menomonee River, where live music provides a reason to linger on warm weekends. You can also book an hour-long tour of its 118-year-old buildings that once housed the Milwaukee Gas Light Company. Milwaukee’s second-oldest craft brewery — Lakefront Brewery — hosts a tasting room along the Milwaukee River in Brewers Hill, not far from where many of the beer barons once lived in Victorian-style homes. Visit on a Friday night and you’ll be treated to a fish fry and live polka performance in its beer hall. Tours are also offered.

Big city by an even bigger lake

Blending experiences surrounding architecture, cuisine and craft beer — not to mention an abundance of green spaces — Milwaukee’s lakefront setting is one not to miss or overlook. Each of the four seasons shows vibrancy, whether it’s a quiet morning along the snow-dusted lake, basking in the long days of sunlight come summer, or autumn’s brilliantly hued foliage later in the year.